Photo by @dguttenfelder, words by Cynthia Gorney traveling through Cuba for National Geographic. ------ “Those Cuban-born passengers on the ship,” Señora Martha and her husband wanted to know. “What did they do when they saw Havana for the first time?” They wept. “Ah.” Nods. But then: “I don’t understand why they waited so long to come back.” The Adonia, the first U.S.-to-Cuba cruise ship in nearly 40 years, floated beside Havana’s port terminal nearby, its hulking presence a curiosity for the Cubans who gathered at the seafront to contemplate both the vessel (pretty things, these foreign ships, they agreed on that) and its significance. Eruptions of international capitalism complicated life all day Tuesday around Havana: dozens of the shiniest macinas, the old American cars tourists love so much, convened on police-blocked streets before collecting Chanel models for a fashion show parade. Camera crews blocked other streets to film the eighth rendition of “Fast and Furious,” which in Spanish is “Rapido y furioso,” a delicious double-entendre for the Cubans who kept repeating it with relish: this is big, the resumption of relations with the United States, and perhaps furioso in its own way. “They’re not renting my rooms,” Señora Martha said, and shrugged. She’s an economist. She gave that up to rent rooms to tourists, whose foreign money is worth so much more than the Cuban pesos in which her economist salary was paid. No tourist is going to stay with her while housed in a ten-story ship, though, and for Señora Martha the correct word for the Cuban revolution remains the one she was taught in school: el triunfo, the triumph. “But we need the money,” she said. “They spend here. So let them come. Let them come.” Cynthia Gorney

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ナショナルジオグラフィックのインスタグラム(natgeo) - 5月5日 03時20分


Photo by @dguttenfelder, words by Cynthia Gorney traveling through Cuba for National Geographic. ------ “Those Cuban-born passengers on the ship,” Señora Martha and her husband wanted to know. “What did they do when they saw Havana for the first time?” They wept. “Ah.” Nods. But then: “I don’t understand why they waited so long to come back.” The Adonia, the first U.S.-to-Cuba cruise ship in nearly 40 years, floated beside Havana’s port terminal nearby, its hulking presence a curiosity for the Cubans who gathered at the seafront to contemplate both the vessel (pretty things, these foreign ships, they agreed on that) and its significance. Eruptions of international capitalism complicated life all day Tuesday around Havana: dozens of the shiniest macinas, the old American cars tourists love so much, convened on police-blocked streets before collecting Chanel models for a fashion show parade. Camera crews blocked other streets to film the eighth rendition of “Fast and Furious,” which in Spanish is “Rapido y furioso,” a delicious double-entendre for the Cubans who kept repeating it with relish: this is big, the resumption of relations with the United States, and perhaps furioso in its own way. “They’re not renting my rooms,” Señora Martha said, and shrugged. She’s an economist. She gave that up to rent rooms to tourists, whose foreign money is worth so much more than the Cuban pesos in which her economist salary was paid. No tourist is going to stay with her while housed in a ten-story ship, though, and for Señora Martha the correct word for the Cuban revolution remains the one she was taught in school: el triunfo, the triumph. “But we need the money,” she said. “They spend here. So let them come. Let them come.” Cynthia Gorney


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