ナショナルジオグラフィックのインスタグラム(natgeo) - 5月7日 00時00分

Photo by @dguttenfelder, words by Cynthia Gorney
_____“They don’t show THIS to the tourists, do they?” Lester said. “Be careful on the stairs. Follow me.” He and a dozen compañeros in the southern coastal city of Cienfuegos had watched sourly from a rain-puddled dirt street as big blue buses from Havanatour, the state tourism agency, rolled past them and into the gated port parking lot. The massive white Adonia, affixing a gangplank for the morning’s visit. was not the first ship to disgorge foreign visitors at the Cienfuegos dock. But it was the first to bring so many Americans, with their admirable habit of tipping in high-value currency. Lester, a 40 year-old fisherman who’s had a dismal haul recently, joined a glum group of friends who make their living as drivers of horse and pedal-powered taxis—though not off these cruise ship Americans, apparently, not that morning. “I want you to see this,” Lester said, and led us toward the town center his way, along a soggy back street, and now up the narrow stairs to an apartments warren inside of which wood scraps had been nailed together to fashion an extra interior shed: the permanent one-room home of a 32 year-old woman and her mother. A few blocks away the cheerful Havanatour guides were showing Adonia passengers the lovely century-old city theatre and the flowering trees of the central plaza, and we said to Lester: But isn’t this what tours do everywhere, put the prettiest parts on display? “OK, yes, that is normal,” Lester said. “But here you can be stopped, and fined, if you approach a tourist for unapproved ‘cultural exchange.’ Come on, amigos. Let’s keep walking.”

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