Surf Magazineのインスタグラム(stab) - 8月17日 06時32分

@ジョン・ジョン・フローレンス. 'Art' by @mattp.aul. Now abstract's not usually our bag but when this one slid across our desk we couldn't take our eyes off the thing. It's John, it's Backdoor, and it's beautiful. "It was a glassy, clear evening in late in the year and the first few three to four foot sets started to trickle in,” says Matt. “The next day would see solid swell, and in the meantime John and @nathan_florence were finding small tubes and nailing air sections from Pipe to Off-the-Wall. I was floating around at Backdoor, picking off shots of everyone, and John happened to cruise past me on this Backdoor wall. He nailed this hand drag carve. I wasn’t in position for the turn from the front, so I did my best to get it from underwater. Autofocus was on my side that day. I chose to edit this in B&W to emphasise texture in the water and the hand drag. Rail game is an art form and JJF makes good art.” #stabfullframe @oneillusa

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