2013 I took a four year break in doing lead comps. Most of the times I watched the streams and slowly saw the style evolve away from the old school 15 min crimp ladders the early 2000's offered. • This year was a 'come-back-after-Yosemite-year' so I decided to see if I would still enjoy a good old pump fest. After doing three comps this summer, without any real highlights as expected, I was shocked how much fun I still had after all these years! I was suprised as well that with only a blink of my old endurance fitness I could make it to finals in Villars. • The style has changed quite a lot, involving athletic climbing on big holds/volumes rather than only crimps. Of course the time reduction to 6 minutes makes for shorter routes without many rests. Many of the competitors haven't really adjusted to this yet, which opens up opportunities for some psyched boulderers like @janhojer, @michael.piccolruaz or @alexej_rubtsov to do well (thumbs up guys). • For 2017, no more lead comps, a small taste was enough. 2018, same thing: a bit of bouldering, a bit of lead, but the only goal is @innsbruck2018, all disciplines. Easy choices so far. But then what?... • Olympics... Yes or no? It has been a clear no until now. No more comps opens up possibilities to expedition climbing, which has been on my mind for too long. This summer reactivated the choice reappear. A new gym 3 min from my home gives for perfect training, #project9b and #projecttrad fit in perfectly, plus I always loved Japanese food ;) It basically comes down to a couple of questions: How important are the Olympics to me personally? Can I still go on like this for 3 years injury-wise?? Is Patagonia gonna wait for me???

jorgverhoevenさん(@jorgverhoeven)が投稿した動画 -

ヨルグ・バーホーベンのインスタグラム(jorgverhoeven) - 8月6日 23時41分


2013 I took a four year break in doing lead comps. Most of the times I watched the streams and slowly saw the style evolve away from the old school 15 min crimp ladders the early 2000's offered. •
This year was a 'come-back-after-Yosemite-year' so I decided to see if I would still enjoy a good old pump fest. After doing three comps this summer, without any real highlights as expected, I was shocked how much fun I still had after all these years! I was suprised as well that with only a blink of my old endurance fitness I could make it to finals in Villars.

The style has changed quite a lot, involving athletic climbing on big holds/volumes rather than only crimps. Of course the time reduction to 6 minutes makes for shorter routes without many rests. Many of the competitors haven't really adjusted to this yet, which opens up opportunities for some psyched boulderers like @ヤン・ホイヤー, @michael.piccolruaz or @alexej_rubtsov to do well (thumbs up guys).

For 2017, no more lead comps, a small taste was enough. 2018, same thing: a bit of bouldering, a bit of lead, but the only goal is @innsbruck2018, all disciplines. Easy choices so far. But then what?...

Olympics... Yes or no? It has been a clear no until now. No more comps opens up possibilities to expedition climbing, which has been on my mind for too long. This summer reactivated the choice reappear. A new gym 3 min from my home gives for perfect training, #project9b and #projecttrad fit in perfectly, plus I always loved Japanese food ;) It basically comes down to a couple of questions: How important are the Olympics to me personally? Can I still go on like this for 3 years injury-wise?? Is Patagonia gonna wait for me???


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