ヨルグ・バーホーベンのインスタグラム(jorgverhoeven) - 2月22日 23時48分

If you've seen the latest news about the Paris2024 proposal to include climbing in the Olympics, you've most likely also seen lots of happy messages about this 'great news'.
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I've always tried to take a neutral stand on the Olympic sport climbing story, but lately I've seen the negative impact the Olympics (and especilly its combined format) have on our sport.
The single disciplines are slowly crumbling, with many federations choosing to fund/send their 'Olympic climbers', rather than their best climbers. An entire generation of comp climbers is focussing on a discipline that the IFSC has already chosen to abandon.
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The 2020 Olympic format is a completely new discipline, last minute designed and rarely tested.
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The 2024 proposes again a new discipline (lead+boulder) and a seperate speed discipline. -
It seems that the make-and-break of disciplines is just as easy as political treaties. Maybe 2028 can do Lead+speed? Or DWS?
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The fact that a committee can roll the dice and change a sport so that it fits the 'Olympic dream', without caring how it affects the core of the sport, is quite sad; so is the fact that the IFSC will endorse everything, just to become and stay Olympic.

#climbtoparis
#notmycupoftea

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cesar_grosso I understand and partially I agree with you. We are in a “transition” period, but you need considerate 3 points. 1- The IOC gives to IFSC only 1 podium to Tokyo and, maybe 2 to Paris. It's not ideal for us, but we need understand that this is the steeps to 3 or 4 podiums in the future, and mixing the modalities (in my opinion) it's the best solution in this case. 2- Let's look forward and beyond, the movement in countries and continents sub developed, like South America, Africa and South Asia, Sport Climbing is growing really fast just because now it's an Olympic Sport and has visibility. In Europe, it's and has always been developed sport while in Brazil all investments are for soccer. Now we have small climbing walls everywhere, little sponsors, climbing events, shops, TV, the sport on the press, etc. Our Universe definitely it's growing. 3- The single modalities will always present in World Cup and World Championships. To dream to become an Olympic Champion or World Champion it's a personal decision. Have fun in your project 👊

stattmanford While I do understand your perspective on the radical switch in formats across the next two Olympics, I personally feel like the one they are settling on for 2024 is more similar to the format they would ideally like to establish and 2020 was largely a compromise, which I am willing to have exist for the sake of getting climbing into the Olympics. I am still torn however on whether or not I feel like it should be split into the 3 disciplines and have medals for each or if it should be the best athlete in all 3 categories. I'm okay with the split at the world champs and world cup circuits, but for some reason I feel like the Olympic champion is a title that necessitates being the best of the best in the sport, which for some reason I view as being the best of the best out of all 3 disciplines overall haha. Not sure why, but it'll be interesting to see how it plays out and how people view the format as we get closer, and even after it concludes.

tinytruckclimbers The Olympics are meant to find the best at a very specific discipline. It is so specific there are even medals for different length of a pool and style of stroke used in a race. It is impossible for 1 person to be the best at all three disciplines so instead you get mediocre performances in all three disciplines instead of the truly elite. This is very apparent in speed because it just comes down to time. It is harder to observe a route or boulders difficultly without actually trying it. It also is changing the climbing gym landscape for the rest of us. Climbing gyms used to be for training to then go outside and perform on real rock. It seems gyms these days are setting more and more of a comp style and in my experience translates very little to real rock climbing. This stunting my performance! Well said @jorgverhoeven . I hope the higher ups realize this and make the decisions that are best for the sport.

thummo I agree. I wish the money hose could be turned on for developing and preserving outdoor climbing areas, and outdoor climbing. Similarly I wish indoor climbing could grow and change organically. While I obviously respect the speed climbers as athletes and can find beauty in that sport, it is insane and retrogressive to impose that discipline on our sport’s best athletes, while discouraging them from climbing outdoors. Same kind of goes for parkour style comp boulders, although I find that style more interesting. I mean really speed climbing was embraced by totalitarian sport ministries as a way to co-opt and control the climber’s impulse, while parkour was developed as a way escape the cops in a foot chase.

oh_my_whale I feel as if the combined format is like having a forcing a runner to do sprinting, mid distance, and distance running in order to go to the olympics. While there is a track event like that there are also individual events. So I think if climbing is to stay in the olympics, which I honestly do not care if it does. It needs to have a combined format, as well as separate sport, boulder and lead comps. There are other sports which do that like gymnastics, and track with the pentathlon so why can’t climbing do the same.

fredhallsilva A new circuit should be created a professional world circuit on commercial gyms where sponsors support their climbers with any federations envolved. As we see in other sports like surf or skate. This could lead to a longer career for atletes. Right now in competition climbing athletes are fast food and are discarded as soon as someone younger shows up.

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