フェリシティー・パルマティアーさんのインスタグラム写真 - (フェリシティー・パルマティアーInstagram)「My words from the current @whitehorsesmag magazine... “I got obliterated in the end, but that wave was a turning point in my career. It was later called the biggest wave ever ridden by an Australian woman, breaking Layne Beachley’s previous record. But far more than that, it reignited my love for surfing again and gave me a taste of the joy and camaraderie the big wave community shares. I loved it. It was so different from the contest mentality I was accustomed to, where everyone is pretty much out for themselves. Since then, big wave surfing has become my focus and it has helped me to better understand myself and who I am. I put this down to the raw nature of the environment when you’re surfing bigger waves and the fact that you are constantly evaluating your decisions and their consequences. I find this brings everything into focus and sharpens my perspective. It constantly challenges what I think I know about myself and forces me to evolve, much like my approach to riding these waves has had to evolve too.” Read more in @whitehorsesmag」10月17日 6時09分