エミリー・ハリントンさんのインスタグラム写真 - (エミリー・ハリントンInstagram)「~ Tactics, Progression, & Imagination ~ When I first lead the Monster Offwidth in 2015, it took 2.5 hours and I arrived at the end feeling like I’d been in attacked by a shark. My back and elbow had been shredded to pieces by the 6” of hellish space I had cheese gratered my way up for 200ft. In all my years climbing I had never felt so scared, exhausted, and hateful toward a single pitch. As the idea of free climbing El Cap in a day permeated my psyche, the thought of having to climb the Monster again was nauseating and seemed pretty unrealistic considering how much it depleted me and how long it took. Most climbers who have achieved said feat consider the Monster pretty tame and often don’t even bother placing gear. I remember having a conversation with my friend @katiebirdlambert about how much that pitch sucked and how the heel/toe camming technique everyone uses was impossible for us -small women w feet the size of keychains. Our feet were simply not wide enough to span the length of the crack and provide enough purchase to even use them. I started experimenting with using an approach shoe (@lasportivana TX4) to make my foot a bit longer so I could try and the heel toe cam method. It worked slightly better but the lack of stiffness made my foot even more tired in the long run - a bad sign for the in a day push. This season while brainstorming with friends we decided that perhaps my foot needed to be even bigger - like, say, the size of @alexhonnold’s foot. But one keychain foot would absolutely flounder inside a giant Honnold shoe, right? Sure, unless that tiny foot was also nestled inside her own shoe, providing necessary length and stiffness to ascend the dreaded Monster. On Nov 4 at daybreak I carefully dispatched the heady downclimb boulder problem to gain access to the offwidth. I shimmied to a tiny perch, sat down, and Alex attached his size 8.5 TC Pros to the rope. I trammed them across and pulled them on over my own. I heel toed to my heart’s delight in my giant feet, reaching the anchor in 30min, barely breathing, unscathed and smiling. @thenorthface // @kodiakcakes // @petzl_official // @lasportivana 📸 @jess_talley // @jonglassberg」11月20日 1時46分