スージー・ロウのインスタグラム(susiebubble) - 4月27日 23時53分


When a brand looks back into its archives, the beginnings tend to be presented as earnest and humble. Guccio Gucci may have been a bellboy at the Savoy Hotel but from that unlikely story, a brand empire would spring forth. And that’s where we begin in @グッチ ‘s #GucciCosmos exhibition, which opens in Shanghai tomorrow. Through the revolving doors (circular motion anchors the entire exhibition), we’re into the first of eight “worlds”, Portals - where Gucci’s 100 year history of luggage is reflected in a spiral of mirrors. London, Paris, Hong Kong, Shanghai the voiceover soundtrack intones. Gucci is Global of course.

In the next Gucci sphere, an incredible zoetrope spins round and around, as we gallop through the history of the horsebit from its loafer beginnings in the 1950s to the resurrection of a Tom Ford era bag in the latest show.
There’s a blank canvas Eden, where Gucci’s Flora print can grow and grow. Genderless statues loom over us projected with men’s and women’s suiting. Then the archives of Florence are reproduced here in powder blue - inviting us with open drawers.

At the heart of it, a beating cabinet of curiosities reveals a breadth of objects that fall under Gucci’s codes. More spinning vehicles, as a carousel of ensembles runs through Gucci’s fashion gamut (Tom Ford, Frida G and Alessandro Michele all present and correct)

And finally a double Duomo immersing us into infinitive prints.
The thing this exhibition doesn’t shy away from is scale and speed. That’s down to @esdevlin ‘s clever scenography.
In the press conference, she talked of “cathedral thinking” - the work of a cathedral isn’t completed with one generation. The mantle has to be passed through time. And so as Gucci awaits its next chapter, #GucciCosmos is here to remind us all of the cyclical nature of fashion and its constant momentum.
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Gucci Cosmos is at Shanghai’s West Bund Art Centre until June and then it will tour around the world


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2023/4/27

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