ケリー・スレーターのインスタグラム(kellyslater) - 7月27日 09時38分


Gliding thru the outside bowl at Haleiwa last winter. I LOVE Haleiwa. @brock.little Used to take me out there when as a kid when it was big and tell me what a p---y I was. #KerryTerukina showed me how to line up safely when I was about 14. I surfed my first triple crown event there in '91 when it was too big for it and washing thru from the outer reef...scared the hell out of me. Haha. I've had some of the most exciting sessions of my life on big days with @rosswilliamshawaii, @rcj6666, @thomasvictorcarroll, @shanedorian, @darrickd, @kalanifoster, #ToddChesser, @ジャック・ジョンソン, @timmyreyes, @therealaarongold, and a bunch of other junkies addicted to this spot. One time Chesser and I got caught inside and both broke our leashes. When we finally got to the beach my board was just next to the rocks on the sand and Todd's was getting slammed under the lava rocks near the lifeguard stand wave after wave. He just screamed 'Naaaaahhhh!!!' super loud like he did anytime he hated something. So many great memories from this place. ?: DarrickDoerner


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