ジェフリー・ライトのインスタグラム(jfreewright) - 1月7日 14時41分

#SBS...all the way to yesterday and calmer days. Why? Cruised back out to this spot late this afternoon - reading 5-7ft on Surfline. Nah. Sets on the break to the left of it are triple overhead. But damnit, I can get out there, heart-rate rising. Paddle out. That was a journey. Almost at the line-up, made it by the skin of my short hairs. Phew. Now, the set. Wait, are those mountains or what just happened? Get outside. Made it past the first 2 waves - cool. Not so fast - catch the lip of this next monstrosity. Oh oh. Backward underwater chaos for a while. Huh? Air. Nice. Oh shit. Here comes another one. And there's your head, son, and also, drag your ass twisting down under this water like chum on a string. Ok. I understand, but how long is this going to take exactly? Air again - my favorite. What now? How much white water is that? Zoinks. Turn toward the beach to get blasted out of this clown cannon and hold on to your board like you'll never let go of it ever again in life. K? Sleep with it tonight. And don’t get above yourself. Got it. Live to fight another day. #StayHumble.
But I coulda made it! To quote my friend @lifesawetcanvas, “I love this place!”

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