アダム・オンドラさんのインスタグラム動画 - (アダム・オンドラInstagram)「I had a great couple of days in Croatia last week. I returned to Paklenica - a place that I used to visit with my parents when I was a small kid, where it is easy to combine both climbing and beach time. I also on-sighted Spomin here, a beautiful 8c multi-pitch (see a video “The Balkans Road Trip” on Black Diamond YT channel). • This time, I really wanted to give an on-sight try to “Il Maratoneta”, climbed by Maurizio “Manolo” Zanolla in 1987. With the grade 8b+, it was one of the hardest routes in the world at that time. And despite being right next to the trail in one of the most visited crags in Europe, it has seen less than 10 ascents over the last 33 years. I was super proud to on-sight this rig. • On the left, Slovenian legend Tadej Slabe bolted another project, unclimbed until today. The upper crux proved to be too difficult for the summer heat, but I found a really nice link-up combining the lower crux of the project and then going slightly to the right into the crux of Maratoneta. To me, it actually takes the better two parts of both routes into a very crimpy and very power endurance testpiece. I called this line Genius Loci and it could be around 9a. See the uncut video on my YT channel. • Regarding my visit of Paklenica, I recommend checking out the interview with PlanetMountain (link in stories), where I also contemplate about how hard it is to on-sight all the old routes from the '80s and the funny fact that none of the "world’s first of the grade” 8a or harder has never been on-sighted. 8a or even 8b should not be a problem to on-sight nowadays, right? • For those who are interested: Grand Illusion 8a, FA Tony Yaniro 1979, USA The Face 8a+, FA Jerry Moffat 1983, Germany Kanal im Rücken 8b, FA Wolfgang Güllich 1984, Germany Punks in the Gym 8b+, FA Wolfgang Güllich, 1985, Australia Wall Street 8c, FA Wolfgang Güllich, 1987, Germany Hubble 8c+ (9a), FA Ben Moon 1990, UK Action Directe 9a, FA Wolfgang Güllich 1991, Germany #croatia #climbingcroatia #paklenica #climbing #rockclimbing #onsight #adamondra」8月3日 0時47分