トームのインスタグラム(tomenyc) - 10月8日 05時51分


#Tome #Resort15 inspired by @jackie_nickerson

NEW YORK, JUNE 1, 2014
by MAYA SINGER

For this, the Tome boys' first Resort collection, photographer Jackie Nickerson served as their art goddess muse. A review of her show at the Jack Shainman Gallery earlier this year referred to the "social contract" of photography—as the scholar Ariella Azoulay put it, "The bond created when we gaze into the face of someone in a photograph and feel obligated to fight for social change." So it's probably no coincidence that the Tome collection Nickerson inspired coincides with the launch of its White Shirt Project, an initiative to benefit Katie Ford's anti-trafficking foundation, Freedom for All. As Tome's Ryan Lobo explained, he and partner Ramon Martin don't see this as a one-off—they'd like to make the project vertical in its do-gooderism, setting up factories where emancipated sex workers can train to sew, and then make the next generation of shirts that will benefit the foundation. Lobo and Martin should be applauded for their ambition.

It's not clear that seeing Nickerson's show Terrain was the direct impetus for Tome's launch of the White Shirt Project. What is clear, if you've seen her photographs of African farmworkers, is that they had a very direct influence on the look of Tome's clothes—everything from the leafy silk print to the unusually varied palette, which ranged from rose pinks and mauves to mustard yellow, earthy greens, and brown. Riffing on the African theme, but in another way, Lobo and Martin also paid subtle homage to YSL's legendary Safari collection, with looks that incorporated safari jacket pockets and laces. There was a sporty vibe here in general, with a couple of dressy anoraks, blouson shorts, and button-downs with tails meant to stay untucked. The dressier looks, meanwhile, were best when simple—a spaghetti-strap pencil dress in white with a light touch of pleats was a standout. Lobo and Martin also updated their signature lace looks, executing them in easy shapes, with black rubber zips that gave the pieces a little Belle de Jour frisson (another wink at YSL?). Elsewhere, there were new versions of tried-and-true Tome items—


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