アレックス・ジョンソンのインスタグラム(alexjohnson89) - 10月21日 07時10分

Here's a li'l Friday personal PSA: Apparently for the last like, twenty years, I've been sizing my climbing shoes too tight! ? I always thought "the tighter the shoe, the more precise the footwork." They were fitted to the point of barely being able to walk ten steps, and falling hurt my toes like crazy. My downturned shoes were so tight I couldn't climb slab, because there was literally no room for the shoe to flatten out. I wasn't able to use my feet to their full potential hardly at all. I went from a 7 to a 7.5 and gradually up to an 8.
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Now not only am I able to wear my shoes for longer periods of time (more than one attempt at a time), I can stand on slab, and more importantly, have room to curl my toes inside my shoes like eagle talons, gripping holds like I never have before. ?
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My go-to right now are the Shakras from @evolv_worldwide. New fave. I've worn them for everything lately, from sending a squeezy V10 granite roof, 5.13 limestone sport, sandstone bouldering mileage day, and in finals at the Portland Boulder Rally. There's a fine line between too big and too small, and it's all personal preference. But I think climbing in shoes that are outrageously too tight is a thing of the past for me! K, carry on. Happy sending. ?

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