ウド・ノイマンのインスタグラム(_udini_) - 6月24日 18時53分


Degrees of Freedom
Not every Boulder World Cup winner is the most flexible person and has the biggest range-of-motion (ROM). You wouldn’t know from their climbing, but in isolated flexibility tests restrictions become apparent.
BUT, what these World Cup winners might lack in absolute ROM, they surely make up for with efficient self-organization. They OWN their range-of-motion. This is why I like the term „workspace“, it implies that you can „work" at any point in your 3D range-of-motion.
Considering that self-organization is what elevates range-of-motion to useable workspace, gets me thinking that ideally:
Mobility coaches itself!
Instead of repetive exercises or drills, mobility practice then would mean putting yourself under constraints to encourage the emergence of creative movement solutions.
By manipulating the constrains, like restricting your hand and foot positions and mark those with tape as needed (distance to wall in first example and advancing from glueing the hand to the wall to pressing small foam roller to wall with some body part in the 2nd example), these exercises are easy to scale to ones ability.
Find constrains that make sense to you and are related to situations you encounter when climbing (provide context). Restrict yourself to the point when what you have done in the past starts to break down and you need to find new solutions to emerge. Then push your reach envelope to the limit through active engagement at end range. By reaching further into the stretched position with intensity, you will not only stimulate tissue adaptation but also your awareness and ultimately self-organization!
Thank you so much @doreenelisabeth for playing along!
#ideastoimproveyourclimbing #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #borntoclimb #mobility #flexibility #selforganization #constraintsledapproach #climbingperformancecoaching


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