ニューヨーク・タイムズのインスタグラム(nytimes) - 6月15日 12時55分

With its trademark chile heat, Sichuanese cooking has been conquering the world. But as Chinese cooks and foodies worry about the roots of their tradition, a spicy debate is taking place about its future. Many argue that rapid growth in restaurant cooking has drowned the tastes and textures of dishes. At the same time, menus are often narrowed to dauntingly spicy dishes, ignoring the variety and nuance of the cuisine. “You do have to maintain tradition, but it’s not a display in a museum,” argued Yang Wen, whose #Chengdu restaurant, Lotus Shadow, pictured here, features dishes — like braised shrimp infused with jasmine tea — a world away from the homespun fare favored by old-school revivalists. To outsiders, the alarm probably sounds over the top. But as China becomes increasingly unmoored from its past, the angst over #Sichuan cooking distills wider anxieties about the place of tradition. @adamjdean took this photo while on #nytassignment in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province. #成都市

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