ウド・ノイマンのインスタグラム(_udini_) - 11月13日 02時35分


Realizations of the 2018 climbing comp season: The Devil is in the Details (or in the feet in this case)! As you know, the lead finals was won by only 11 seconds that Jessica Pilz (right) was faster than Janja Garnbret (left).
So, where (and how) did she gain those 11 seconds?
At 3:34, Janja still is quite a bit ahead and has already clipped the second to last bolt. Janja's foot movements in this sequence are not optimal though. Her right foot gives it already away, during the whole sequence she positions her feet too close to the wall, is sometimes even standing on her heel and therefore restricts her whole body movements.
Jessy on the other hand makes more small adjustments with her feet and takes care that her heels are free to turn to facilitate her upper body movements.
If you analyze climbing competitions, often trivial details make the difference.
Stay tuned for my upcoming portray of the state of the art of lead climbing!
#innsbruck2018 #leadclimbing #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury


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2018/11/13

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